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PRENOTE: Actual Blog Entry 23 February, 2010, looks like the Entry dates cut off at 2009! Will notify!
PREFACE: About a month or so ago Dave contacted me asking if I wanted a forum entry to let folks know what life is like up at Thule AB, as he made for Southernap about Carrier Life. At the moment, I still have access to CA, so I figured I'd start on a series of Blog entries on life at Thule; if the site eventually becomes unaccessable, I might have to go the other route. For now, here's my first entry on my Arctic Adventure to the Top of the World.
ENTRY: Thule Air Base is the northernmost USAF installation, located above 76*N Latitude; 10* above the start of the Arctic Circle, and a few hundred miles above the Northern (Southern) Lights. Compasses are useless up here, because magnetic North is West of us, and I understand when aircraft are flying up here, they have to use grids, because their own compasses are useless. GPS guidance might have changed that for some planes, but the primary aircraft that come and go from here are a DC-8 and Canadian C-130. Home of the 821st Air Base Group and 12th Space Warning Squadron (Wewt!) the function of Thule Air Base is to support Missile Warning operations for the defense of America, Canada, and our allies. Our secondary mission, which actually takes up most of our time, is Space Surveillance; looking for and gathering observations on satellites. Makes sense, as there are very few times folks go hurling missiles around, but the satellites are flying about the sky every second. For this purpose, we (12SWS) operate the Mighty AN/FPS-132(V)3 Upgraded Early Warning Radar (UEWR)/Solid State Phased Array Radar System (SSPARS). More on those satellites later.
When you're going to Thule, you take a DC-8 (also known to 12SWS and the 821st as the "DC-Late," as it is notorious for breaking) which may or may not have its heater functioning at any given time. Fortunately, when I came here just over two months ago I was wearing well-insulated winter boots, though apparently the heaters were working that day. If the heaters aren't functioning, it is friggin' COLD. The flight takes about 7 hours. Upon arrival, for any newcomer, it is imperative that you not be the last new guy of the plane, and if you're the only new guy (or gal) you're kind of screwed, as you become the new guardian of the squadron mascot.
When I arrived, a new rule was made that the four of us arriving on the same plane would each take a turn guarding the mascot. I think I was actually the most successful; I only lost control of it twice, and reacquired it rapidly. The latest guy off the plane lost it twice in the same night, and after the second time, it got shipped back state-side. Anyone familliar with the defense of squadron mascots knows other squadrons getting their hands on your mascot is not good. Apparently, it went to Schriever AFB, CO, and this was the second time in recent history it has journied back state-side. That's one of two things you don't want to have happen; the first is to have the 821st ABG get a hold of it (not as bad as getting it shipped state-side, usually). Apparently, our young Airmen SF personnel stormed the Missile Warning Operations Center (MWOC) and jacked up one of the carriers when he first arrived, to take the missile. They were fully justified, as you're not allowed to have it on site, but by tradition, we have to be creative to have it on us at all times (or just keep it out of mind and not have it on us.) Either way, I got rid of that thing long ago, so it's no factor for me anymore.
I arrived at Thule during the dark season...and MAN is it dark then. I missed most of the terrain, and a MOUNTAIN for the better part of two months (now that we can see, it looks kind of like a cross between Mars and Hoth.) I had been working Mid shifts (2100-0900) for a long time, so even when it started lightening up, I was asleep and never noticed the terrain much. I got a day off, looked outside around 1000 and noticed for the first time just how much bigger the base is than I thought. Walked down stairs, opened the door, looked to my right and "Huh...there's a mountain right there, how 'bout that? Wait, WHAT!?" Couldn't see the damn thing looking in that direction for two months. The sky, on a clear night, is extraordinary; a sky that under normal circumstances, I'd assume only a pilot could see in the dark night sky well above light interference. On the road to the radar, you get far enough from light interference that there is nothing to mar your view. The constellations are hard to find because there are so many stars out, and regions of the sky that would appear as black in a more populated area yield dimmer clusters of stars. Within about 15 seconds looking up one night (we had pulled over to admire the sky) I saw two low-earth orbiting satellites and a shooting star against the already amazing backdrop, and noticed what appeared to be part of the spiral arm of our galaxy. One thing you can't see: the Northern Lights (or, Southern Lights from here); they are too far South. Of note, I just saw the sun today around 1145 for the first time in over two months!
To help deal with the lack of sunlight, and especially important to people with Seasonal Effectiveness Disorder, we are given "Happy Lamps"; that is, a lamp that generates different wavelengths of light to help your body generate vitamins and chemicals it would normally create from absorbing sunlight. My happy lamp broke about three weeks in. I have since learned I do not suffer from SED.
The living areas are like college dorms...eerily so. Unless you're a Captain through Colonel (or in one instance, a 1st Lieutenant) you have a single-person dorm with a conjoined bathroom, shared with your neighbor. It's space enough, certainly, but MAN does it remind me of the dorms back in Syracuse (before they were rennovated). The dorms have layers of lead paint as well as lead water piping, but apparently we've removed the asbestos from the dorm buildings; plenty of other buildings have that wonderful insulation, though. Considering that this place is very much unchanged from what it was 50 years ago, that's what you have to deal with. Sadly, I can't eat the paint chips up here :rolleyes:. We have a day room with a computer wired for internet access. You can also get internet installed into your room through a Danish company, but the problem is that it is extremely expensive, and very slow. All internet is pushed through the same lines, so regardless of what package you buy, you're always getting a connections slightly faster than dial-up. At least I have it, though!
In terms of recreation, we have a fitness center with a decent enough gym (got new machines up here just before I arrived) and a bowling alley with four lanes in the same building. Also, a community center with a wireless hub, a small reading room with a few books (I brought a bunch of mine up), a small theater (which is actually pretty nice; chairs are in good order, and there's a hi-rez projecter for movies!) and a game room. Then, there's the Top of the World Club (TOW Club) - we don't have an O or E club, so it's a combined O/E/Contractor club (though the Contractors have a second club of their own called the Igloo). Got pool tables, dart board, some places to sit, but also a ballroom for more official functions, and a restaraunt if you don't want to go with bar food (which is actually probably the best food up here, IMHO).
Unfortunately, with some contractors being Inuits, there can be problems at the TOW club. Alcohol and Inuits do not mix; I don't know the science behind it, but we got a briefing on this when we first arrived, that, should we go "Thule Trippin'" (i.e. exploring the landscape) when it gets bright, NEVER give alcohol to encountered Innuits (say if you had it on you for a picnic) because it is highly common for them to become aggressive, violent, and abusive towards other people and their famalies once drinking. But they get it sometimes; I can recall one night that I was sitting Commander of our half-billion dollar radar and got a call from SF that an Innuit had gotten liquored up at the club, went waving a knife around, then ran and stole a truck, crashed it into a snowbank, ran from the accident, and eventually passed out in a building. Made the evening a bit more lively, to say the least. The truck was largely unharmed.
Some notes on the weather: As you might expect, it is COLD up here. But you get used to it...kind of. Upon arrival, it was a managable -9 or -11 or something, which I now consider shorts weather for short distances (no kidding, here). Temperatures can drop to -65*F at times; I haven't actually been outside in those temperatures, but have driven in them. The crew vehicle literally could not warm up, so we just shut off the "warm" air from the vents at that point. At -70*F, we were told exposed skin can begin to freeze in 15 seconds. On the average, it's about -20 to -30 with windchill at any given time. Also, storms up here are insane. We have wind speed sensors, so that we know when to call storm conditions, to prevent people from going outside, or going but with another person, or calling it safe after a storm or bad visibility, closing roads, etc. During my first week here, we got hit with a storm that yielded 135kt winds (about 155MPH or so). Yeah, no one was going outside for that! I think our dumpster outside the officer dorm wound up two streets over or something to that extent.
Also, regarding wildlife, we have a few animals that manage to live up here, and which we see every once in a while. Arcric Hares can be seen on the roads (little white basketballs, as we call them), Arctic Foxes (Archies) which have fur that can change color; there are black-furred and white-furred archies running around at any given time. Also, polar bears. We got our first polar bear warning about three weeks ago. That is no good; polar bears have no fear of man, and if you see one, it is advised you run to the nearest building, as quickly as possible - don't try to make yourself look big, don't shout...polar bears don't dick around; they will kill and eat you. I think they are protected under American law, but IIRC, either the Danes or Inuits don't care and will bag them if they become problematic. So far, we've only had that one warning, after tracks were found, but we never saw the bear.
That's about all for now. There's a lot more to discuss, I'm sure, and I'll write it when I think of it.
P.S. - For a short time during ACEVAL/AIMVAL, "Hoser" drove around Nellis AFB with a modified non-functional AIM-9 attached to the side of his van. The base commander had him remove it. It resides in front of his house today.
V/R,
"Caesar"
PREFACE: About a month or so ago Dave contacted me asking if I wanted a forum entry to let folks know what life is like up at Thule AB, as he made for Southernap about Carrier Life. At the moment, I still have access to CA, so I figured I'd start on a series of Blog entries on life at Thule; if the site eventually becomes unaccessable, I might have to go the other route. For now, here's my first entry on my Arctic Adventure to the Top of the World.
ENTRY: Thule Air Base is the northernmost USAF installation, located above 76*N Latitude; 10* above the start of the Arctic Circle, and a few hundred miles above the Northern (Southern) Lights. Compasses are useless up here, because magnetic North is West of us, and I understand when aircraft are flying up here, they have to use grids, because their own compasses are useless. GPS guidance might have changed that for some planes, but the primary aircraft that come and go from here are a DC-8 and Canadian C-130. Home of the 821st Air Base Group and 12th Space Warning Squadron (Wewt!) the function of Thule Air Base is to support Missile Warning operations for the defense of America, Canada, and our allies. Our secondary mission, which actually takes up most of our time, is Space Surveillance; looking for and gathering observations on satellites. Makes sense, as there are very few times folks go hurling missiles around, but the satellites are flying about the sky every second. For this purpose, we (12SWS) operate the Mighty AN/FPS-132(V)3 Upgraded Early Warning Radar (UEWR)/Solid State Phased Array Radar System (SSPARS). More on those satellites later.
When you're going to Thule, you take a DC-8 (also known to 12SWS and the 821st as the "DC-Late," as it is notorious for breaking) which may or may not have its heater functioning at any given time. Fortunately, when I came here just over two months ago I was wearing well-insulated winter boots, though apparently the heaters were working that day. If the heaters aren't functioning, it is friggin' COLD. The flight takes about 7 hours. Upon arrival, for any newcomer, it is imperative that you not be the last new guy of the plane, and if you're the only new guy (or gal) you're kind of screwed, as you become the new guardian of the squadron mascot.
When I arrived, a new rule was made that the four of us arriving on the same plane would each take a turn guarding the mascot. I think I was actually the most successful; I only lost control of it twice, and reacquired it rapidly. The latest guy off the plane lost it twice in the same night, and after the second time, it got shipped back state-side. Anyone familliar with the defense of squadron mascots knows other squadrons getting their hands on your mascot is not good. Apparently, it went to Schriever AFB, CO, and this was the second time in recent history it has journied back state-side. That's one of two things you don't want to have happen; the first is to have the 821st ABG get a hold of it (not as bad as getting it shipped state-side, usually). Apparently, our young Airmen SF personnel stormed the Missile Warning Operations Center (MWOC) and jacked up one of the carriers when he first arrived, to take the missile. They were fully justified, as you're not allowed to have it on site, but by tradition, we have to be creative to have it on us at all times (or just keep it out of mind and not have it on us.) Either way, I got rid of that thing long ago, so it's no factor for me anymore.
I arrived at Thule during the dark season...and MAN is it dark then. I missed most of the terrain, and a MOUNTAIN for the better part of two months (now that we can see, it looks kind of like a cross between Mars and Hoth.) I had been working Mid shifts (2100-0900) for a long time, so even when it started lightening up, I was asleep and never noticed the terrain much. I got a day off, looked outside around 1000 and noticed for the first time just how much bigger the base is than I thought. Walked down stairs, opened the door, looked to my right and "Huh...there's a mountain right there, how 'bout that? Wait, WHAT!?" Couldn't see the damn thing looking in that direction for two months. The sky, on a clear night, is extraordinary; a sky that under normal circumstances, I'd assume only a pilot could see in the dark night sky well above light interference. On the road to the radar, you get far enough from light interference that there is nothing to mar your view. The constellations are hard to find because there are so many stars out, and regions of the sky that would appear as black in a more populated area yield dimmer clusters of stars. Within about 15 seconds looking up one night (we had pulled over to admire the sky) I saw two low-earth orbiting satellites and a shooting star against the already amazing backdrop, and noticed what appeared to be part of the spiral arm of our galaxy. One thing you can't see: the Northern Lights (or, Southern Lights from here); they are too far South. Of note, I just saw the sun today around 1145 for the first time in over two months!
To help deal with the lack of sunlight, and especially important to people with Seasonal Effectiveness Disorder, we are given "Happy Lamps"; that is, a lamp that generates different wavelengths of light to help your body generate vitamins and chemicals it would normally create from absorbing sunlight. My happy lamp broke about three weeks in. I have since learned I do not suffer from SED.
The living areas are like college dorms...eerily so. Unless you're a Captain through Colonel (or in one instance, a 1st Lieutenant) you have a single-person dorm with a conjoined bathroom, shared with your neighbor. It's space enough, certainly, but MAN does it remind me of the dorms back in Syracuse (before they were rennovated). The dorms have layers of lead paint as well as lead water piping, but apparently we've removed the asbestos from the dorm buildings; plenty of other buildings have that wonderful insulation, though. Considering that this place is very much unchanged from what it was 50 years ago, that's what you have to deal with. Sadly, I can't eat the paint chips up here :rolleyes:. We have a day room with a computer wired for internet access. You can also get internet installed into your room through a Danish company, but the problem is that it is extremely expensive, and very slow. All internet is pushed through the same lines, so regardless of what package you buy, you're always getting a connections slightly faster than dial-up. At least I have it, though!
In terms of recreation, we have a fitness center with a decent enough gym (got new machines up here just before I arrived) and a bowling alley with four lanes in the same building. Also, a community center with a wireless hub, a small reading room with a few books (I brought a bunch of mine up), a small theater (which is actually pretty nice; chairs are in good order, and there's a hi-rez projecter for movies!) and a game room. Then, there's the Top of the World Club (TOW Club) - we don't have an O or E club, so it's a combined O/E/Contractor club (though the Contractors have a second club of their own called the Igloo). Got pool tables, dart board, some places to sit, but also a ballroom for more official functions, and a restaraunt if you don't want to go with bar food (which is actually probably the best food up here, IMHO).
Unfortunately, with some contractors being Inuits, there can be problems at the TOW club. Alcohol and Inuits do not mix; I don't know the science behind it, but we got a briefing on this when we first arrived, that, should we go "Thule Trippin'" (i.e. exploring the landscape) when it gets bright, NEVER give alcohol to encountered Innuits (say if you had it on you for a picnic) because it is highly common for them to become aggressive, violent, and abusive towards other people and their famalies once drinking. But they get it sometimes; I can recall one night that I was sitting Commander of our half-billion dollar radar and got a call from SF that an Innuit had gotten liquored up at the club, went waving a knife around, then ran and stole a truck, crashed it into a snowbank, ran from the accident, and eventually passed out in a building. Made the evening a bit more lively, to say the least. The truck was largely unharmed.
Some notes on the weather: As you might expect, it is COLD up here. But you get used to it...kind of. Upon arrival, it was a managable -9 or -11 or something, which I now consider shorts weather for short distances (no kidding, here). Temperatures can drop to -65*F at times; I haven't actually been outside in those temperatures, but have driven in them. The crew vehicle literally could not warm up, so we just shut off the "warm" air from the vents at that point. At -70*F, we were told exposed skin can begin to freeze in 15 seconds. On the average, it's about -20 to -30 with windchill at any given time. Also, storms up here are insane. We have wind speed sensors, so that we know when to call storm conditions, to prevent people from going outside, or going but with another person, or calling it safe after a storm or bad visibility, closing roads, etc. During my first week here, we got hit with a storm that yielded 135kt winds (about 155MPH or so). Yeah, no one was going outside for that! I think our dumpster outside the officer dorm wound up two streets over or something to that extent.
Also, regarding wildlife, we have a few animals that manage to live up here, and which we see every once in a while. Arcric Hares can be seen on the roads (little white basketballs, as we call them), Arctic Foxes (Archies) which have fur that can change color; there are black-furred and white-furred archies running around at any given time. Also, polar bears. We got our first polar bear warning about three weeks ago. That is no good; polar bears have no fear of man, and if you see one, it is advised you run to the nearest building, as quickly as possible - don't try to make yourself look big, don't shout...polar bears don't dick around; they will kill and eat you. I think they are protected under American law, but IIRC, either the Danes or Inuits don't care and will bag them if they become problematic. So far, we've only had that one warning, after tracks were found, but we never saw the bear.
That's about all for now. There's a lot more to discuss, I'm sure, and I'll write it when I think of it.
P.S. - For a short time during ACEVAL/AIMVAL, "Hoser" drove around Nellis AFB with a modified non-functional AIM-9 attached to the side of his van. The base commander had him remove it. It resides in front of his house today.
V/R,
"Caesar"
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