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Hauksbee

TrackIR 5 reconsidered...

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I'm trying to fine tune TrackIR 5, using the Track Clip Pro...with mixed results. When I have the UI open to where I can see the Camera and three heads, it works fine. I have Speed set at the midway point [6?] and Smoothing set to 100. [F12 set to 'Center'] But when I get in the air, it semi-locks up. Which is to say, it seems to move fine when I accidently turn my head, but when I turn it on purpose, the view remains looking straight down my guns. My only solution is to give my head a quick, sharp shake, [like trying to clear a drop of water out of your ear] and it's working again. If I continue to look over my shoulder, it'll take another shake to loosen it up so I can see straight ahead again. This shaking of the head makes the viewpoint spin wildly for a second or so, and I often lose sight of where my target got to. Hitting F12 will cure it [at least to return to front view] but that can be hard to find when you're chasing one plane and ducking tracer from another, the room is darkened and all keys are black. Does any of this sound familiar?

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I'm trying to fine tune TrackIR 5, using the Track Clip Pro...with mixed results. When I have the UI open to where I can see the Camera and three heads, it works fine. I have Speed set at the midway point [6?] and Smoothing set to 100. [F12 set to 'Center'] But when I get in the air, it semi-locks up. Which is to say, it seems to move fine when I accidently turn my head, but when I turn it on purpose, the view remains looking straight down my guns. My only solution is to give my head a quick, sharp shake, [like trying to clear a drop of water out of your ear] and it's working again. If I continue to look over my shoulder, it'll take another shake to loosen it up so I can see straight ahead again. This shaking of the head makes the viewpoint spin wildly for a second or so, and I often lose sight of where my target got to. Hitting F12 will cure it [at least to return to front view] but that can be hard to find when you're chasing one plane and ducking tracer from another, the room is darkened and all keys are black. Does any of this sound familiar?

 

Do you have any ambient light on around you or any thing reflective other than the Track Clip Pro that might be signalling the sensors? I've found that my watch can reflect light from the monitor, beaming it to the sensors, and fouls up head movement. I've had to take it off when ever I use the Track IR now. Other things that can reflect light can be fair skin, sweat, hair, light color print on clothing, glasses, etc...

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I'm trying to fine tune TrackIR 5, using the Track Clip Pro...with mixed results. When I have the UI open to where I can see the Camera and three heads, it works fine. I have Speed set at the midway point [6?] and Smoothing set to 100. [F12 set to 'Center'] But when I get in the air, it semi-locks up. Which is to say, it seems to move fine when I accidently turn my head, but when I turn it on purpose, the view remains looking straight down my guns. My only solution is to give my head a quick, sharp shake, [like trying to clear a drop of water out of your ear] and it's working again. If I continue to look over my shoulder, it'll take another shake to loosen it up so I can see straight ahead again. This shaking of the head makes the viewpoint spin wildly for a second or so, and I often lose sight of where my target got to. Hitting F12 will cure it [at least to return to front view] but that can be hard to find when you're chasing one plane and ducking tracer from another, the room is darkened and all keys are black. Does any of this sound familiar?

 

This happens when one of the three dots moves out of range...out of the Trackir FOV

 

Try moving the trackir unit further back so as to increase the field of coverage for your nut.

Also try adjusting the angle of the unit but I suspect moving it back will be fine.

 

If you have it on your monitor and don't want to move the monitor back place it on a wee shelf behind the monitor - I built one for my desktop.

 

 

 

HTH

 

WM

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I don't know the 5er TrackIR, but could it be that you made it react too "aggressive" - in other words,

if you flatten the curves for the yaw, pitch etc., it might perhaps react "normal" ?

 

Also, check patiently the three green dots - do all possible moves, and see if they are always there.

If not, there might be a disturbing light source.

Edited by Olham

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This happens when one of the three dots moves out of range...out of the Trackir FOV

Thank you, gentlemen...much good advice here. It may well be that 'distance-to-camera' is the heart of my problem, seeing as my 'distance-to-monitor' is determined by the non-prescription glasses I use when sitting at the computer. I will cobble together a shelf and move it back. It has crossed my mind, in a general sense, that I should sit back farther as indicated in the tutorial diagrams. But in the heat of battle, how I sit is driven by the depth-of-field of my glasses; being non-prescription magnifiers, they're only in focus within a narrow range.

 

As far as ambient light goes...might be a contributing factor during the day, but definetly not at night, tho' reflections off glasses could. I'll search out a dulling spray at the hardware store. Thanks. TrackIR is much, much more sensitive than I thought. Sweat?

 

I haven't attempted to adjust the curves yet. First because it all seems to work so well during the set-up, and secondly, the tutorial was written for T4, and I have T5. Everything has changed and been moved around, so I'll go there as a last resort.

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I find that tipping my cap back helps too

It's best if the reflectors are pointed directly at the TIR when at zero position

The top of my monitor is higher so tipping aligns it well

Helps when looking down into the cockpit or over the side

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Yes - and you could always re-adjust your cap with the help of the three green dots.

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Hauksbee,

 

I am a night shift worker, and as such play OFF mostly during daylight hours. I bought heavy duty black plastic and "Command" style connectors (the ones that don't damage the walls) to enable me to put it in place and remove it if neccessary.

 

I too am forced to wear spectacles, though I wear contacts at work and when I ride my bike...but when I have some time off work, I generally wear specs.

 

The blacked-out three rooms (I found) was unnecessary (I blacked out the kitchen window and loungeroom window as well to be on the safe side). Now just one window behind me over my left shoulder is blacked out, I opened up the others and found it worked perfectly without it.

 

Like I said, when I'm playing OFF, I also wear specs, no "dulling spray" necessary. It may add to the atmosphere to play in almost total darkness, but as you said, the keyboard becomes a problem then. I have spent $AUS340 on a gaming keyboard (Logitech G-19) that has backlit keys, and this helps greatly. Of course, you don't need to spend that much to get a lit Keyboard. Perhaps even one of those "itty bitty book lights" that you can clip onto a book and it gives sufficient light to read in bed without disturbing your partner. That may illuminate your keyboard sufficiently.

 

But honestly, I found that TrackIR 5 was not as sensitive as I thought it would be. I also spent the extra bucks on the Pro Clip, but I don't use it any more (perhaps in the future, who knows). If you got the whole kit and caboodle, you'll find there's a cap clip as well. Just three reflectors on a metal clip that attaches to a baseball style cap. I find that wearing headphones with cables hanging everywhere (especially if you're doing a bit of head movement) is obtrusive and a pain in the...head. :wink:

 

If you do not wish to disturb your partner or housemates, and wish to use headphones, perhaps it is worth your while trying to fine tune the position of the Pro Clip. The cap clip is great, and works just fine for me. If you have that little device, try that first before you do anything drastic like modify your shelves or specs. Then gradually introduce more light sources (if you wish) until you can see your keyboard, or purchase one with backlit keys, or better still, map the necessary keys to your joystick so they are instinctively placed, and then you can forget about your keyboard except for between sorties.

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To counter act any ob jects that might be given off a reflection to the sensors, use large reflective stickers and stick/glue them on to a hat that you don't mind destroying. Preferably on the back of the hat. Have them positioned in a triangular formation on the hat, similar to the reflective clip-on. The amount of reflection off of those stickers should over power any other reflective object. Think of the sensor as the tracking optics on a sidewinder missile. You need to provide a stronger source to track you instead of something else.

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