Hemorad
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Posts posted by Hemorad
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Broadside,I have downloaded the new version, but haven't yet used it. When you attempt to download it, it gives you an install wizard that basically insists on you uninstalling your older version first. Perhaps it might be prudent to save your old version first.
I was able to install version 5 without uninstalling version 4. Install went fine, results were nice! I personally think function is smoother and more reliable. I deleted the version 4 icon from my desktop (though not the v.4 program), the version 5 placed a new icon on my desktop, and all is functioning well.
Hemo
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Thanks to all for your rapid replies!
Yes, my mistake, the model is an LVG CVI (not CVII).
Looks like Maltese crosses are out for the lozenge camo. Will go with the skinny Greek (Balkan) crosses, as shown in the video clip.
Fuselage of the model is indeed just stained plywood, no camo.
Does anyone know why the Fliegerabteilung decided to switch insignia in spring 1918?
Also, is there a date difference between the skinny and fat versions of the Greek cross?
Interestingly, the modern Luftwaffe has gone back to a modified, rather slender, Maltese cross these days.
Thanks again,
Hemo
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I am about to launch into a new project, a plastic 1/32 scale LVG CVII which I just got from this great site in New Zealand:
http://thevintageaviator.co.nz/node
The model features several finishing options, which include five-color full wing lozenge decals, and a selection of Maltese crosses and Balkan crosses (fat and skinny varieties). I really like the looks of the lozenge camo, and would also like to apply the Maltese crosses (this plane did come out in early 1918, when Maltese crosses were still in), but the historical examples that came with the kit show only rather drab broad-patch camo on the wings with the Maltese crosses, and the lozenge camo is shown only with the later Balkan crosses.
Question is, would it be incorrect to mix the Maltese cross and lozenge camo together on this craft?
BTW, you should take a look at the site above. These guys have built a full-scale flying FE2B using an original rebuilt Beardmore engine, an SE5a, and several other original engines (Mercedes DIII). Great pictures and videos of their planes in flight included!
Hemo
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I just installed the TrackIR 5 upgrade over my existing TrackIR 4 hardware and software. I think it works much more smoothly for me, tracks better, has fewer skips and lockups in head motion (which I had been having previously).
I haven't done any tweaking on the new TIR 5 program, just the plain default settings.
And I didn't have to set up any new personal profiles.
I installed over TIR 4 without deleting and had no conflicts. A new TIR 5 icon came up on my desktop, I clicked it, and off I went! Have had no slowdowns or graphical glitches, as described by Olham.
So fair, I'd highly recommend it!
Hemo
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Saw this on BBC news today & was touched.
Hope the link works!
http://news.bbc.co.uk/today/hi/today/newsi...000/8175790.stm
Cheers to all,
Hemo
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Sounds like you got stiffed by a Chinese Knock-OFFCheck out post #4, this thread, both of them are in the $60 range
I haven't used a stick with FFB, but I'd like to try. I want to keep my separate left-hand throttle and rudder pedals (both CH) though. Are there any programmable FFB sticks compatible with this separate hardware?
Hemo
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Griphos,It appears I sent the picture of the Albatros without an attached message! Sorry!
What I intended to say was that this model was the first wood and metal model of this type I ever attempted. It was fun, but yes, in fact, there were a few real problems with the Brittania metal parts fitting. In particular, the fuselage struts supporting the upper wings simply would not allow the upper and lower wings to lie on the same parallel plane. I ended up sawing a piece out of the front part of the stut assembly to get the wings to line up, and epoxying the parts together. I believe I had some similar issues with the metal gun mounts, too. Everything came out okay in the end. The stain in the picture looks more red than the real thing, though I do like the looks of the red in the picture.
I've been eyeing the Camel, also, and maybe the Nieuport 28. Just haven't resolved myself to dedicating my time to another project like this right now!
Nice job on your Wright Flyer!
Hemo
BTW, the $265 price tag posted on that site seems a tad steep! I found my Albatros model for half that on EBay.
Hemo
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Hemorad,Have you tried to seek help at the CH site? http://www.ch-hangar.com/forum/forumdispla...prune=&f=14 I've been using CH products for several years, but still consider myself a noob.
God luck
Thanks, BirdDog, I'll give them a try.
Hemo
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Haven't messed with the drivers for the Flightstick, no. Since the stick works fine in another sim (Il2 1946), I have to assume they're working okay.Hemo
And yes, the problem appears to affect all AC I've tried.
Thanks,
Hemo
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Haven't messed with the drivers for the Flightstick, no. Since the stick works fine in another sim (Il2 1946), I have to assume they're working okay.
Hemo
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Hey, that's sweet! Nice stain on the wood too. I may just have to break down and build this one.Griphos,
It appears I sent the picture of the Albatros without an attached message! Sorry!
What I intended to say was that this model was the first wood and metal model of this type I ever attempted. It was fun, but yes, in fact, there were a few real problems with the Brittania metal parts fitting. In particular, the fuselage struts supporting the upper wings simply would not allow the upper and lower wings to lie on the same parallel plane. I ended up sawing a piece out of the front part of the stut assembly to get the wings to line up, and epoxying the parts together. I believe I had some similar issues with the metal gun mounts, too. Everything came out okay in the end. The stain in the picture looks more red than the real thing, though I do like the looks of the red in the picture.
I've been eyeing the Camel, also, and maybe the Nieuport 28. Just haven't resolved myself to dedicating my time to another project like this right now!
Nice job on your Wright Flyer!
Hemo
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Hey Hemorad,I've heard the Albatross from Model Airways is kind of a problematic model. I've eyed that one, but have held back because of its reputation. What did you think when building it? I built that company's version of the Wright Flyer. Quite enjoyable. It's hanging from a rafter now. I'll attach a pic of it.
I hear the Jenny is the best kit. The new Sopwith Camel has me looking hard though.
I've never heard of that book, Hauksbee. What a great book! I'm about to google for it right now.
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Hey Hemorad,Welcome to the Club! I Know you will enjoy flying BH&H, and this forum is one of the best on the Web. Some initial thoughts:
Make sure the ailerons are only being controlled by the FighterStick and not duplicated in the Throttle or Pedal profiles. Also, since WWI War Birds did not have flaps, make sure there is no default setting assigned for Flaps. If your CH FighterStick is like mine, it has "control wheels" on three sides of the base. With pedals and separate throttle, they should not be assigned to any control surface. Delete any assignment you find and make sure they are centered. I hope this helps....
Hey, Barnstorm,
In fact I've been flying BHAH for a couple of months now without a problem, and the roll glitch just appeared. I did check the control wheels, rolled them every which way and made sure they were centered (except the throttle wheel, which is full on--I did have a problem once when I accidentally hit the throttle roller on the stick base to about 50% and was then unable to get full throttle in OFF!) All my other controllers have been calibrated and I don't think any new assignments could have appeared without my tinkering. I was hoping to avoid uninstalling and reinstalling and resetting all my stick inputs, but that may be the next step :(.
Thanks!
Hemo
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My several-year-old CH USB Fighterstick has suddenly developed twitchy roll control. Pitch works fine, separate CH throttle and pedals work fine, but ailerons are all wobbly and the animated cockpit stick flips back to midline whenever the real CH stick is fully deflected either left or right (with loss of aircraft aileron control to match). I have rebooted my system, recalibrated the stick two or three times, and have tried the stick in another sim (Il2 1946), and everything works fine until I enter OFF. I think, therefore, something is wrong with either my CFS3 files or the BHAH files. Does anyone have a fix before I have to delete and reinstall everything?
Thanks,
Hemo
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Yep, I built that Albatros model a couple of years back. It still graces the top of my beer fridge. I posted some pics of it on the old site. It took several months of eyestrain to complete. Each wng rib as I recall, is individually crafted and consists of about a dozen or more pieces for each rib--before modifying the final parts for accepting cross spars, struts, and aileron pulleys. After finishing it, it almost broke my heart to shoot the daylights out of an Albatros in OFF. But I got over it.
Hemo
That "other WW1 flight sim"
in WOFF UE/PE - General Discussion
Posted
Sorry, but what's DRM?
Hemo