Trouble with the Warthog Stick

[+streakeagle 871]

After recently committing to removing my real F-4 B-8 stick mod and replacing it with the more precise, more reliable, more buttons Warthog stick, my stage 1 trigger button (DX button 1) decided to stay on at all times. The default fire button of every single game I own is stuck on! Initially, I didn't notice this, because in DCS, I had been mapping the fire function to stage 2 (DX button 6) to match my F-4 B-8 grip. The B-8 grip has a two stage trigger, but both of the B-8's I own have no wires/pins connected to stage 1. So to be more realistic, I mapped most of my DCS aircraft modules' trigger buttons to the stage 2 position.

 

It was when I tried to start up the latest Aces High 3 beta that I started having problems, and again when trying to fly SF2. The Microsoft function for testing/calibrating game controllers showed the issue: DX button 1 was always "red" (on).

 

I disassembled the grip. The buttons are connected to a green PCB that converts the individual signals into a serial chain of bits. I move the stage 1 trigger to the stage 2 trigger connection and the stage 1 switch worked just fine. So this isn't a stuck switch. I am assuming that the PCB has a problem... bad resistor? bad transistor?

 

I looked at getting another stick. No used grips on eBay. Thrustmaster does sell the stick without the throttle: about $275-$300 for the stick $400 for the complete HOTAS. So, if I went that route, I would probably just bite the bullet and buy a whole new Warthog HOTAS. My existing Warthog setup was purchased in 2011 for $350 during an online sale at Fry's. It is way out of warranty, but I contacted Thrustmaster for help. Their answer: I can get a new PCB for 40.8 Euros (about $45) including shipping. It might not fix the problem. It might not last very long. But $45 is a small risk compared to $300-$400. So that is what I am doing. Waiting for the new PCB.

 

While I was troubleshooting the grip, I found the internal wiring to be delicate. I actually broke off one wire on the stage 1 trigger switch. That helped in the trouble shooting, but required me to shorten the wire to fix it with solder. So, I am going to have to be very careful replacing the PCB, or more wires (or more likely the same one) will break. Hopefully, the PCB solves the problem. One aircraft in particular benefits from the dual stage trigger: the A-10C. The first stage engages gun stabilization, then after the gunsight is where you want it, you pull stage 2 to fire. I don't fly the A-10C very often, but when I do, I need the gun to work! Re-assigning buttons to work around the break defeats the purpose of lying the DCS: A-10C with a Warthog HOTAS, where every button functions identically to real life.

 

If the PCB swap doesn't solve the problem and I don't do any further damage to the stick, I will wait until I get some overtime cash to get another HOTAS... or simply re-install my F-4 B-8. Just waiting for the PCB to arrive from Europe.

[+ST0RM 145]

2011 isnt that long. Especially for the price of that HOTAS. I've had the same CH Products gear since 2001 with a crap ton of stick time on it. I'm just now getting some delays and drift with the pots.

 

That sucks. Hopefully the new PCB will fix your issues.

 

-Jeff

[+streakeagle 871]

When you consider that I had built the F-4 stick and almost NEVER used the Warthog stick, it is really disappointing. At most, the stick has been exposed to dust and the thermal cycles of my PC room: 82 deg F max when I am not home in the summer and 62 max in the winter. The only times I really used the stick was for playing Steel Beasts Pro PE and flying the A-10C. The throttle has been in continuous use and has zero problems. My Saitek sticks (X-36 USB, X-45, X52 Pro) were as good or better than this after years of continuous use. I have two thoughts: 1) Lack of use somehow causes a problem? But this is very simple electronics: a switch connected to a multiplexer board. So, 2) my joystick extension I just installed added resistance to the switch circuit, so it didn't like the extra resistance? Since when did decreasing the voltage/current make something break? It seems to be dumb luck and others with Warthogs have had much worse luck right out of the box. If this board doesn't fix the problem, I will probably save up money and buy another Warthog because I do like the sensors/precision. But I might try other options like the Mamba or better yet the high end F/A-18 stick under development if it ever becomes available for sale.

 

One thing about this problem: the damaged board could be used to make my spare helicopter B-8 grip into a Warthog compatible stick. The B-8 doesn't have nearly as many buttons, so having one failed doesn't hurt a darn thing. I just need an interface between the board and the Warthog base (basically a modified PS/2 connector) and a way to connect the button wires to the board (normally done with these cool little white plug-in connectors). I can see good coming from this because I was too lazy to order the black silicon chip and build the multiplexer circuit myself.

 

If everything goes well, my Warthog will be fixed by the new board and I will end up with a Warthog compatible REAL B-8 grip :) Now I just need to save up and order the Warthog compatible German grip I have seen on SimHQ. Thrustmaster missed a golden opportunity by never making any other grips compatible with its Cougar/Warthog sticks. I probably would have bought any and all versions if they were a reasonable price and replicated the real stick as well as the F-16/A-10 sticks have. But I would prefer authentic materials. My B-8's aren't metal on the outside. They appear to be some sort of resin/plastic permanently glued together around a metal pipe core. The metal on the inside gives them weight, but they don't feel cold to the touch at all. B-8's also have a diamond texture like 1911A1 pistol grips. B-8's are very comfortable compared to the cold, angular, metal Warthog stick.

Edited January 22, 2016 by streakeagle

[+streakeagle 871]

New PCB came in Friday, I picked it up at the Post Office today. Installed and works perfectly. Having to spend an extra $45 on a $350 stick I have hardly used isn't the best situation. I also didn't like having to disassemble the stick twice and snap out/snap in every switch connector since that just increases the chance that I have damaged/broken these delicate wires. But as long as this board lasts a long time, it is better than having to buy a new stick or HOTAS.

 

Now I have a spare board with only one bad input. I need a ps/2 connector and a map of the wiring pin-out to adapt my spare B-8 grip. It would also be helpful if I knew the part number for the white 2-pin sockets to make landing wires on the board very easy.