Any Photographers Here?

[+Dave 2,322]

What kind of tips and tricks do you have for a beginner who plans on taking this to the next level. I got my a Nikon D40 yesterday with all the bells and whistles. I am going to use it mostly for aviation photography. Soem example of tips is like where should I stand when filming planes out doors to keep the sun glare down? Any advice for shooting moving objects, also what about things like shooting at night. Any and all help appreciated.

[+suhsjake 11]

For Moving objects

Camera settings tutorial

 

At night use a slow shutter speed if there isn't enough light, but if there is a large light source (i.e. after burners) use a standard setting. as for the sun, safest thing to do is to stand with it behind you, unless you get really good at the shutter and apertures settings. I took a class in my high school my freshman year and I have forgot a few things.

[tank03 1]

Use the "Rule of Thirds". Divide your view into three vertical and three horizontal sections and then try placing your subject at one of the intersects. This add interest and balance to the photos. You'll notice that good photos usually don't have the subject square in the middle; it's usually a bit off to the side or up or down.

 

Use the WHOLE field of view. Don't end up with a photo with the subject a little spot in the center surrounded by useless background. Decide what the subject of the photo is and then use the whole camera view to show it off.

 

Try using some framing; i.e. having some object in the foreground or background to add scale.

 

Try taking shots from unusual angles. Don't just stand in front of the object; lay on the ground and shot up towards it, or get above it and shoot down on it. This adds an interesting perspective to the shots and makes them stand out.

 

Try and shot in cloudy, but not overcast weather. The sun causes shadows, which can be used creatively, but clouds soften shadows and bring out depth and color.

 

Try zooming in on a particular part of a subject that captures the essence of the subject, and take multiple shots of that part from different angles and perspectives.

 

Take LOTS of shots. When I go on a photo shoot, I take hundreds of photos and end up with a couple of keepers.

 

If you are up to it, play around with the exposure settings; depth of field is very useful to know about.

 

If I think of more I'll post them.

 

Good luck and have fun.

[tank03 1]

Since the camera is just a device for capturing light, I would suggest getting a dedicated, off camera, synced flash. The built in flashes aren't nearly powerful enough (fall off is about 15 ft.), and you often need to seperate your light source from your camera angle. A basic flash cna be picked up for less than $100, but they are so useful that it's worth investing in a good one. In my opinion the flash is nearly as important as the camera.

 

Especially if you are doing night shots, you'll want a sturdy tripod (anything longer than 1/30 will need a tripod/stable base). With either flash, or long exposure, night shots can create very interesting results. I have great shot I made at night using a long exposure of flights coming and going at the local airport. Very cool results due to the a/c lights.

 

A couple of filter woudl do you good as well. A star filter give interesting effects to night shots with lights, and a polarizer is almost essential. A neutral density filter for use during really bright situations gives you more leeway with your exposure settings.

 

As far as moving objects; a slight directioanl blur lends a sense of motion and speed (at the loss of detail). Head or tail-on shots give the best chance for detail, while side shots, (though fast shutter speed can stop the blur) can give you that sense of speed with the blur. And I mean blur in a directioanl sense, not just out-of-focus fuzzy.

 

Whatever you do, make sure you key in on the subject; don't have a little plane in the center of the photo surronded by tons of empty airspace. Zoom in and get close.

Edited April 20, 2007 by tank03

[jazz5150 0]

For aviation photography use a good tele lens or zoom lens. At least 300mm, 400 or 500 is better. Get used to using the camara with this big heavy lens. Don't use a tripod unless you are primarily interested in static shots or have trouble keeping the camara steady. It limits your options. Move around your object if at all possible. When photographing a display team try to concentrate on their strong points.

US teams are very good in formation flights, the Red Arrows make spectacular breaks with coloured smoke, the italians have great solo pairs.

Use as slow a film (setting for you're digital camara) as feasable for the current conditions. Try and stand at about half lenght of the runway and somewhat elevated. You will be able to take better shots with less spectators crowding your view. This point is also the focus point for display teams most of the time. And you will be able to get good front and back shots of planes taking of and landing. Make series of shots, this is especially important when trying to capture breaks. Change your aperture and figure out what settings you like best, only the plane in focus, everything in focus, somewhere in between... Use fast shutter settings, but as slow as you can get away with, this will give you more options for your aperture.

Try to use both black and white and colour, black and white is very good for playing with shadows and can render spectacular results in twilight if used to its potential. Colour captures "reality" better and is great when photographing display teams.

 

Practice (a lot!) and develop your own style. Learn the rules of photography, they are a great foudation, and play with bending or breaking them. This can be very effective if you know what rule you are breaking and what the effect is you're looking for.

 

Read: Kodak Complete Book of Photography if you can get it. It is a well written book which covers all the basics and then some...

 

My 2 cents from the top of my head.

Edited April 20, 2007 by jazz5150

[+Dave 2,322]

I use photoshop to edit a lot of my photos. This is an unedited one. See how the sun washed out the skin? How can I avoid that? The F-111 was edited with equalize in PS, I do not like the result.

[+Dave 2,322]

Here I was testing the zoom lens...I was 200 yards away from the Deuce when I took that. I am impressed.

[tank03 1]

I use photoshop to edit a lot of my photos. This is an unedited one. See how the sun washed out the skin? How can I avoid that? The F-111 was edited with equalize in PS, I do not like the result.

 

I would suggest stepping down your exposure to compensate for the brightness. I usually "bracket" my photos: take a couple of the same pix at exposure, take a couple underexpossed, take a couple over exposed. This ensures that I'll get a good shot. Also, by slightly underexposing the photo, colors really become deep and pop out.

A neutral density filter can help ease up on exposure extremes if the camera is maxed out.

 

I'd also suggest adjusting the depth of field (which refers to the portion of the picture that is in focus). By reducing the depth of field (by reducing the aperture setting) the background will be slightly out of focus (just slightly, not like fuzzy or anything) this will really make the subject of the photo, the plane, really pop out of the print. Reducing the aperture and keeping the shutter the same may also solve washed out effect while positively changing the depth of field.

 

I have other suggestions but I don't want to seem critical. Let me know if you want hear it.

Edited April 20, 2007 by tank03

[+Dave 2,322]

I would suggest stepping down your exposure to compensate for the brightness. I usually "bracket" my photos: take a couple of the same pix at exposure, take a couple underexpossed, take a couple over exposed. This ensures that I'll get a good shot. Also, by slightly underexposing the photo, colors really become deep and pop out.

A neutral density filter can help ease up on exposure extremes if the camera is maxed out.

 

I'd also suggest adjusting the depth of field (which refers to the portion of the picture that is in focus). By reducing the depth of field (by reducing the aperture setting) the background will be slightly out of focus (just slightly, not like fuzzy or anything) this will really make the subject of the photo, the plane, really pop out of the print. Reducing the aperture and keeping the shutter the same may also solve washed out effect while positively changing the depth of field.

 

I have other suggestions but I don't want to seem critical. Let me know if you want hear it.

 

Go ahead Tank. I am learning from all this. I knew those shots weren't great.

[tank03 1]

Go ahead Tank. I am learning from all this. I knew those shots weren't great.

 

The shots were good, just a little tweaking is needed I think.

 

Taking the shot if the F-104 (i think it is) as an example, (and keeping in mind these are just my suggestions, everyone has different ideas about what is good or not):

 

1. I would move in a bit closer to fill the image with more of the plane.

 

2. I would adjust the depth of field (smaller aperture, or by setting the camera to "Portrait") to throw the background out of focus (I know I've said this and don't want to beat a dead horse, but it's importnat) . Here you have cars, trees, utility poles all in focus cluttering up the background. The eye can only pay attention to so much and you want the bird to be the focus, not the stuff behind it. By throwing the background out of focus, the eye automatically attends to what is in focus- the plane. One of the first things taught to photographers is pay attention not only to your subject, but also what is behind your subject.

 

3. I would also try shooting a differnet angle. By getting a bit lower you would get more sky and less land (with it's cars, trees, poles, etc) into the shot. The color of the pedestal and the color of the plane work well together. By changining the perspective up by getting lower, you might be able to have those nice symetrical green trees as a backdrop (the vibrant green would highlight the pale color of the pedestal and plane), but the shot would be high enough to cut off the road and cars. However, against a blue sky the plane might get a bit washed out, so under-exposing a bit would really deepen the colors.

 

Your shots are good, really. I just think that what is in the background clutters the shot and takes away from the planes. I used to do portraits and people wanted outdoor shots with the fall foliage standing out in clear focus behind them. I would ask them, "What do you want a picture of- your family or the trees? Because you can't have both and get both done well in a single print." The point is to decide exactly what you want a picture of and then do the things to accomplish that: change perspective, adjust exposure, increase/decrease depth of field. It is possible to have multiple main subjects in a photo, but more often than not it's best to have one subject, especially when just starting out. Most people take snapshots and very few people take photographs, if that makes sense. The difference is how much stuff is in the picture. You'll usually find that if amatuers and pro's photograph the same event, there is much less "stuff" in the pro's pictures.

 

As with anything- practise makes perfect. And don't expect every shot to be magazine perfect. I shoot hundreds of frames and end up with dozens of keepers.

 

It seems I'm starting to ramble so I'll stop here. If you ever have any questions don't hesitate to ask; I love to talk photos.

Edited April 20, 2007 by tank03

[BUFF 8]

Try not to shoot into the sun.

Shooting in RAW will let you adjust/recover images in post-processing where you got your exposure wrong.

As already said it's better to underexpose slightly than overexpose as if a highlight burns out there is nothing to recover.

 

For flying shots you probably want to use shutter speed priority (does the D40 have that?) where the camera will adjust the aperture for correct exposure according to what shutter speed that you have chosen.

Faster speeds will freeze the action better but if shooting props you don't want it too high, say~1/200, as you will freeze the props & it will look static - you want a nice prop blur.

 

Become very familiar with your camera & it's settings so that you can change to what you want really without thinking.

Practice, practice, practice - that's where I often fall down in that I don't get enough practice for my panning.

You are lucky in both the access that you can get & lots of nice, bright light unlike the grey UK.

 

& welcome to a new money pit for your hard-earned cash - lens addiction!

 

I know that you don't like it overall but SimHQ has a small, friendly aviation photo forum plus of course you have places like fence-check & UKAR.

[+Dave 2,322]

Yes the D40 has shutter speed priority. I was just eading about RAW, I can also shoot in RAW/JPEG where is does one of each.

[jazz5150 0]

I also agree that somewhat less exposure would deliver better pictures. Because the photo's are taken in very bright sunlight near the middle of the day (judging by the shadows) I would use either a polarising filter for colour pictures or a red filter for b&w. Aperture settings are personal taste, but if you want focus on the plane blurring the background is a good idea. I would also change position to unclutter the background. For example in the picure of the Thud the building in the background comes up to approx. halfway the fuselage. I would try to get a shot with the building being behind the whole planes, or not in the picture at all. As a pure personal taste I would try to make more adventurous picitures. Try to get a picture from the top, the bottom, lying behind the nozzle down the fuselage. Or focus on an interesting part of the plane an build from there. The Thud has interesting air intakes imho, try to use it in a pucture. The F104 is a missile with razor sharp wings, etc.

These are pure personal views from an amateur, take them for what they are worth...

Edited April 21, 2007 by jazz5150

[+Dave 2,322]

Well I went out today to try my new found knowledge, the only thing I didnt do was shoot in RAW. I forgot about that, but give a few and will post them.

[+Dave 2,322]

Ok here is a few Tank what do you think?

[+Dave 2,322]

A few more.

[tank03 1]

Ok here is a few Tank what do you think?

 

I think they're great. My first thought was- that lucky bastard! I don't think I could ever get that close to the real birds without getting arrested (or shot).

 

In the first shot I think a tweak of the aperture (or setting the camera to Portrait) will obscure the C-130? and really show of the plane a bit more.

 

The second shot is truly great. The pattern of the multiple plane tails adds real interest and the generator cart kind of cements the foreground. By working this angle (the pattern of tails and the cart) by trying some different perspectives of these elements I think you could easily get a magazine worthy photo.

 

The third shot (Dagger/Dart?) is great. You really got a good angel and really filled the picture with the plan. Excellent!

[tank03 1]

A few more.

 

These are great! You're really using the whole field of view to fill the picture. As a result there is a lot less clutter in the background and the planes stand out much, much better.

 

The first really pops out because the trees are perfectly placed behind the plane and make it really stand out and the perspective is great.

 

That nose shot is fantastic! It might be my favorite of the bunch- no background clutter, zeroed in one one element, and an interesting angle, and the color is not washed out despite a bright sun. Everything that makes a pic a keeper!

 

The third is good, but I think moving in a bit more would add emphasis to the A-10 by filling up more of the frame with the subject. Good color sauturation though; especially in such bright light.

Edited April 21, 2007 by tank03

[+Dave 2,322]

Thanks Tank, I got Stormer coming by here later to look at them too. That guy is the cause of my new addiction. Hopefully he will pop by and show off some of his work he has done.

[+Fates 63]

Dave,

 

I used to do all sorts of pics from school sports to weddings to nature and landscape shots. From looking at your pics, I would get a polarizer filter and a UV Filter.

 

You will be amazed at how much the polarizer will deepen the sky blues and take the glare off those canopy shots.

 

Cheers~

 

Mike

[tank03 1]

Dave,

 

I used to do all sorts of pics from school sports to weddings to nature and landscape shots. From looking at your pics, I would get a polarizer filter and a UV Filter.

 

You will be amazed at how much the polarizer will deepen the sky blues and take the glare off those canopy shots.

 

Cheers~

 

Mike

 

I agree, I have a UV filter on my rig nearly every shot, and the polarizer can do wonders.