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Posted (edited)

Siggi,

 

You mentioned that you don't model WW1. You might start if you see this site.

 

http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/

 

 

yikes.gif

 

Excellent quality, highly detailed models in 1/32 scale. Works of art in and of themselves. Most come with PE, excellent decals, superb instructions. They are easily the new benchmark for plastic model kits. They are head and shoulders above all other manufacturers. A touch expensive perhaps, but at the moment, as an introductory offer, they are postage and handling charge FREE worldwide. Four available now, with at least that number coming in 2010. See their "coming soon" link.

 

heat.gif DROOL!

 

Owned by Peter Jackson.

 

Excellent work on the Spitfire. Keep it up, but have a look at WW1 models. Some great stuff out there.

Edited by Check Six
Posted (edited)

Great work Siggi!!

I agree with Check six, when you finish the Spitfire you should try some of the new WW1 kits. :good:

 

 

Didnt know about these Wingnuts kits but they look good. Been buying Eduards kits for the past

couple years.

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers

GB

Edited by GRUMPYBEAR
Posted

Oh man, you know you are heading right for insanity with those details, Siggi?

 

I remember how I gave up about it:

I had built a Messerschmidt Me 262 jet fighter. To show the (rather poor) jet engine,

I showed one engine pod opened. I had made all internal ribs to be real oval parts

with all the holes drilled in for saving weight.

But when I tried to fix it all together, I found, that the nacelle was deformed badly.

So I tried to re-form it by blowing warm air at it from a fan made to remove colour

from wooden parts.

First, nothing happened, until I switched it on hotter. Suddenly it melted faster than

I could remove. I got berserk and through the whole model away.

 

I hope you stop, before that happens, to come back to it later.

It is looking very good so far!

Posted

There will be some pics added to that link later today. The engine and cradle are not far from completion.

Posted

There will be some pics added to that link later today. The engine and cradle are not far from completion.

 

 

Why do you put salt on the parts? I've never heard of that, but then again, I've never built anything on this level of detail... how the hell do you make all othe tubes and wires?? yikes.gif

 

Keep it going and keep us posted! :)

 

OvS

Posted

So, the latest pics. Photos really have a way of making stuff look crap, but hey ho. :grin:

 

tam_merlin61_part01.jpg

 

The engine is ready to go into the cradle.

 

tam_firewall_02.jpg

 

tam_firewall_03.jpg

 

tam_merlin61_11.jpg

 

tam_merlin61_12.jpg

 

tam_merlin61_13.jpg

 

tam_merlin61_14.jpg

Posted

Why do you put salt on the parts? I've never heard of that, but then again, I've never built anything on this level of detail... how the hell do you make all othe tubes and wires?? yikes.gif

 

Keep it going and keep us posted! :)

 

OvS

 

The salt is used as a mask. When it's removed it's supposed to leave the undercoat exposed as if the top coat has worn and chipped. I'm going off it though as it often produces questionable results.

 

The tubes and wires etc are made from anything I can find. I've collected a lot of stuff over time, sourced from many weird and wonderful places as well as obvious ones. On the ground next to telephone junction boxes is one, hospitals is another (I raided the rubbish bin when my kids were being born).

 

After 40-odd hours spent super-detailing this motor (including a fair bit of revision/rectification work) I'm not sure the result so far has justified the effort. Sure, it looks a bit better than an OOB example, but 40 hours better? There's still a fair way to go however, so I'll suspend my final judgement.

Posted

Wow, wonderful work there, Siggi - almost makes me think of trying it again.

 

As for masks: there used to be a fluid paintable rubber for masking, that could

later just be rubbed off. Very good for masking tiny or difficult areas.

Not sure if it still gets produces, and forgot the name.

Posted

Wow, wonderful work there, Siggi - almost makes me think of trying it again.

 

As for masks: there used to be a fluid paintable rubber for masking, that could

later just be rubbed off. Very good for masking tiny or difficult areas.

Not sure if it still gets produces, and forgot the name.

 

Lol, I went out and bought some of that stuff a couple of days ago. I'd previously used the modelling brand (Maskol), which is very thick and hard to get off. I must have thrown it away (dried out in the bottle probably) and the stuff I replaced it with two days ago is far superior (Daler-Rowney Art Masking Fluid). It's thin as paint, goes on as easily as paint and rolls off with the thumb. I used it on the engine after the salt didn't work out. :good:

Posted

As for masks: there used to be a fluid paintable rubber for masking, that could

later just be rubbed off. Very good for masking tiny or difficult areas.

Not sure if it still gets produces, and forgot the name.

 

Yes it can be had at hardware stores for a better price than the hobby stores. Just look for anything that is a liquid mask. It works wonders for masking the clear glass parts around the cockpit.

Posted

Could be the stuff I had - it was a British art masking fluid.

Another effect I used was to paint something silver, then when dry, matt black,

and after drying, carefully go over the surface with fine steel wool, to partly bring

out the silver again.

But what do I tell yer - when I see your work, you surely know all these tricks.

Posted

Could be the stuff I had - it was a British art masking fluid.

Another effect I used was to paint something silver, then when dry, matt black,

and after drying, carefully go over the surface with fine steel wool, to partly bring

out the silver again.

But what do I tell yer - when I see your work, you surely know all these tricks.

 

I've tried steel wool but it doesn't give a realistic effect, at least not in scale. The silver paint needs to show through with sharp edges; steel wool just buffs it through with a fuzzy edge.

Posted

       Speaking of chipping color, here are some photos of my last big airplane model, a Hasegawa 1/32 Zero with lots of PE stuff on it......

 

 

 

 

zero4.jpg

 

 

 

 

zero2b.jpg

 

 

 

 

zero1u.jpg

 

 

 

 

zero3x.jpg

 

 

 

 

      A lot of dust on it too, although I got it in a vitrine!!      Anastasios.

 

 

Posted

       Speaking of chipping color, here are some photos of my last big airplane model, a Hasegawa 1/32 Zero with lots of PE stuff on it......

 

 

 

 

zero4.jpg

 

 

 

 

zero2b.jpg

 

 

 

 

zero1u.jpg

 

 

 

 

zero3x.jpg

 

 

 

 

      A lot of dust on it too, although I got it in a vitrine!!      Anastasios.

 

:yikes:

 

Wow, that is fantastic! What technique did you use? Compare with my PoS (airframe):

 

fin01.jpg

Posted

    Well, pretty much the original one!! After the primer, I painted the whole model with an Aluminium from SnJ and polished it. After that applied the Green/Grey and decals, weathered and then chipped the paint away with my nail. looked pretty convincing to me!!

 

 

 

 

                                     Your Jap looks really nice too!!  Anastasios.

 

 

Posted

    Well, pretty much the original one!! After the primer, I painted the whole model with an Aluminium from SnJ and polished it. After that applied the Green/Grey and decals, weathered and then chipped the paint away with my nail. looked pretty convincing to me!!

 

 

 

 

                                     Your Jap looks really nice too!!  Anastasios.

 

With your nail?! Bloody hell, how many times I've tried that in the past. :blink: I've even considered rubbing in a very fine layer of oil or vaseline onto the silver, to help the top-coat chip off.

 

Did you use polishing powder?

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