Any Auto Mechanics Here?

[WarlordATF 1]

I recently bought an 87 Camaro with a 305 4 Barrel and about 85000 miles.Its in pretty decent shape, but needs a little work. I got it cheap, but i have owned fords all my life so learning to work on a chevy is a whole new world.

 

Its got a top end tick that matches engine speed, which means its either a stuck lifter,bad lifter or worse, a bad cam or exhaust leak. Its not a rod knock, i know that sound well.

 

Tried new plugs and wires to make sure it wasnt a dead cylinder. Sounds like its coming from the number 8 cylinder on the passenger rear of the engine head.

 

Changing that plug was a nightmare, managed it with a 3in extention and ratchet from the top of the car with my arm wedged between the block,smog system and inner wheelwell! That plug also didnt match the rest so at least the last tuneup skipped it.

 

Chevy owners know what im talking about.

 

Now the question is has anyone tried Seafoam engine/fuel/oil additive for a stuck lifter?

 

I read there website, but its hard to go by what is said there.

 

Will it remove typical build up that clogs lifters?

 

This is the next cheapest step in making this car driveable. I've seen the smoke cloud it creates, but not alot of info on how well it worked.

 

I'm being cheap because the goal is to put as much money as possible to have a 350 engine built and ready to install by next year and i want to get a few miles outta this engine without tearing it open.

 

Any other gearheads out there?

 

[+hgbn 91]

It could also be an cracked Piston ring, was there oil on that sparkplug??

[WarlordATF 1]

It could also be an cracked Piston ring, was there oil on that sparkplug??

 

no it was dry, but burned up pretty good.

[+hgbn 91]

What colour did the burn have?? I dont know that make of oil, they dont sell it here in Denmark, have you tryed a fuel additive to clean the valves??

[WarlordATF 1]

What colour did the burn have?? I dont know that make of oil, they dont sell it here in Denmark, have you tryed a fuel additive to clean the valves??

 

light rust color, metal almost burned through, plug was in there a long time,maybe original AC DELCO plug judging by type/condition. The SMOG equipment made changing the #8 plug in camaros alot of work.

 

I didnt even think of the piston ring, i really hope i dont have to pull the head.

 

I still need to send the 350 block out to have it tanked and checked for cracks,but its gonna give me a new project for the next few months. The Rust is minimal on the body for a 21yr old car,solid floorpans and frame rails,but its almost all stock,the hoses and lines are aged so bad that they are the next step.

 

The 305 is running better with the new plugs,wires and rotor,it has always started right up but the ticking is driving me nuts LOL.

 

Seafoam is a multi-system additive, you can put it in the fuel,oil and vacume system to remove buildup on all the engine parts. sounds like wishful thinking, but YouTube has a bunch of videos on it.

[+hgbn 91]

My bet is, that one of the hydraulic lifters are plugged,Dont believe a second that your camshaft is worn with that mileage its a Chevy. It's not the piston ring, if the plug are tan in the burn, thats the right colour for a plug. Had it been a cracked piston ring, it would had been greasy and black.

 

Do you had the Valvecovers off??? If you had was the inside corners greasy muddy???

[Fubar512 1,350]

Try this trick. Add 1 quart of ATF to your crankcase. Start the engine, allow it to warm up, and drive around for an hour or so, but do not let the RPMs exceed 1800 (in other words, don't drive at highway speeds).

 

Then, drain the crankcase, replace the oil filter, refill the crankcase with fresh oil, and your lifter tap will hopefully be gone.

 

Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) has a high detergent content, and will aid in clearing out sludge and small particulates from oil galleys and lifters.

 

BTW, is this the carbureted 170-180 HP 305 (5.0) HO mill, as used in some Z/28 Camaros and the Monte Carlo SS from 1983-88? If so, then it is probably not a "soft cam" issue.

[Wrench 9,876]

If the tranny fluid trick dosent' work, you can try (if it's still around) CD-2 Lifter Lube. Used to use in my 69 Camaro, with it's old 307 (befor the engine change)

 

You said it 'smoked" what color? Gray, white? Black??? Chevy small blocks have always had a slight problem (until they went to roller lifters) with valve stem seals. The angle of the rocker arm always 'pushed' out on the valve as it pushed down, eventually elongating the top the stem seal. Only way to fix that is remove the head and go the the umbrella seals.

 

Other thinks to watch for is erosion of the water passageways in the intake manifold. At the front/rear of the motor, where the collant cross-overs are. The aluminum get eaten away causing leaks. Sometimes externally....sometime right into the tappet valley.

 

Changing them plugs is real fun, isnt' it????? The color you descriped sounds like a good burn, just the plug was too old and worn out. Not much left of the center electrode, was there? or worn down at a major angle??

 

btw, most brown deposits seen on plugs are from fuel modifiers. Blame the oil companies!!

 

Wrench

kevin stein

[column5 63]

The good news is that replacing the lifters on a GM V8 is not that hard. Maybe $50 for a set of lifters plus new intake manifold gaskets. Another thing you might do is set the valve lash (the lash is usually 1 turn past 0 with hydraulic lifters, but you still have to set it). You could have one or more with too much play.

 

I started a thread for my new 383 build here. I'll post as it progresses with whatever I learn. Definately keep us updated on your project.

 

http://forum.combatace.com/index.php?showtopic=25924

[WarlordATF 1]

The good news is that replacing the lifters on a GM V8 is not that hard. Maybe $50 for a set of lifters plus new intake manifold gaskets. Another thing you might do is set the valve lash (the lash is usually 1 turn past 0 with hydraulic lifters, but you still have to set it). You could have one or more with too much play.

 

I started a thread for my new 383 build here. I'll post as it progresses with whatever I learn. Definately keep us updated on your project.

 

http://forum.combatace.com/index.php?showtopic=25924

 

I had a little time to play around with it today, tried the Transmission fluid and its still ticking. I'm gonna go out late tonight and start it, a friend told me if its an exhaust manifold leak i should look under the hood in total darkness and i should notice flames escaping where the gasket failed. Worth a try i guess.

 

It doesnt really smoke very bad at all, i was talking about the smoke cloud that Seafoam makes when you run it through the engine.You feed the stuff in through the Brake Booster Vacume Line and then let it set for 5-10 mins, then when you start it it supposed to blow the deposits out the exhaust in a huge smoke cloud.

 

The only smoke now is the minor blue-ish smoke right at startup, it quickly goes away and when its warm i havent noticed any smoke at all.

 

I just want to cure the ticking so i can drive it without worrying about screwing something up and getting stranded.If worse comes to worse i'll pull the heads and replace the lifters, but if i do that then all that smog garbage is going in the junk pile, too much crap to try to work around, AC doesnt work so it will probably get yanked out too.

 

1987 was the first year Camaros came with roller rockers from the factory, so it has the tall valve covers and strange bolt pattern of the newer SBC blocks.The 305 is not a bad motor, i just want my 350 in there.

 

And yes, The Plugs were a nightmare!, How did chevy intend for them to be replaced? My Uncle and I almost took the mount looseand jacked the engine sideways, but i just managed to wiggle my arm in there!