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Posted

I've used CH Products HOTAS for about 35 years.  It worked fine with my Windows 11 Pro until I just reinstalled my OS and now there are problems with Windows 11 not recognizing the old CH drivers.

My old HOTAS was a breeze to set up in Strike Fighters and worked flawlessly most of the time.  As I now need a new HOTAS I want to make sure it will work well with SF.

I'm currently looking at a Thrustmaster USB T16000M FCS Flight Pack. Amazon.com: Thrustmaster T16000M FCS HOTAS - Compatible with PC : Video Games.

Anyone have any experiences with this HOTAS and SF?  Does it work well with the game?  ANY other HOTAS anyone can recommend?

 

Thanks for any help,

Geary

 

Posted

Eric,

Thanks for the reply.  I had one of these sometime back as well as the T-Flight X.  but after flying the CH HOTAS I was used to more buttons

One of the things I've noticed on the T-16000M I don't think I like is the 3 buttons(?) on the right of the base of the stick.  Means I'll have to take my hand off the stick to push a button. I don't think I'm that agile and coordinated.

Posted

Yeah it's apparently not for everybody, and that's fine, I like it a lot and it suits my needs even for DCS. As for your current stick, I know dual of those are great for Star Citizen but I prefer to fly like a plane, it's what I'm more comfortable with, and so on. But you can always map buttons that don't require agileness, like landing gear and whatnot, but then again I have my landing gear mapped to my coolie hat for SF2.

Posted

Yeah it's apparently not for everybody, and that's fine, I like it a lot and it suits my needs even for DCS. As for your current stick, I know dual of those are great for Star Citizen but I prefer to fly like a plane, it's what I'm more comfortable with, and so on. But you can always map buttons that don't require agileness, like landing gear and whatnot, but then again I have my landing gear mapped to my coolie hat for SF2.

Posted

The CH stuff should still work without CH Control manager and those ancient drivers if you didn't depend of any fancy scripts.

Still use the throttle and pedals in Win 11 with the default Win drivers for everything.

 

  • Like 2
Posted

MigBuster,

I'd been using the CH HOTAS in Windows 11 since it was released. I was using the Windows drivers up until yesterday when I reinstalled Windows 11.  Now it reports a problem with the USB drivers and the Control Manager files.  Windows won't run them.  Hardware is fine, but apparently incompatible with Windows 11 I'm running now.

 

Posted

I run an Intel NUC 11.  I installed and ran Intel's Driver and Support Assistant and it updated 3 drivers, none of which had anything to do with USB.  No chipset drivers are available. BUT Intel sold it's NUC division to ASUS.  Think I'll try ASUS and see it they have a fix. Thanks for the idea.

Posted

GOT IT FIXED!   Apparently, an update switches a device security option to on.  I flipped it off and we're up and flying.

Now I don't know whether I'm elated or not to not have to buy a NEW HOTAS system. :dntknw:

  • Like 4
Posted

As long  as the stick works I wouldn't. Unless you need a backup when the current stick craps out. That's what I do. I have another HOTAS One when my current stick inevitably dies.

Posted
On 9/8/2025 at 12:25 PM, Geary said:

GOT IT FIXED!   Apparently, an update switches a device security option to on.  I flipped it off and we're up and flying.

 

Can I ask where this security switch is located? Windows settings somewhere?

 

Thanks!!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 9/11/2025 at 11:57 AM, DoctorQuest said:

Can I ask where this security switch is located? Windows settings somewhere?

 

Thanks!!

Sorry for the delay in answering.  Been very busy keeping my head above the water line.

I run Windows 11 Pro.  Go to Settings>Privacy & Security>Windows Security>Device Security>Core Isolation>Core Isolation Details>Memory Integrity> Switch to Off if it's on. Good luck.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

That's an important part of Windows 11 security, reduces the chance of malicious code getting into memory. I've only just got myself a new Win 11 PC and I also disabled that to get a Logitech steering wheel to work, that was before I  understood what core isolation was for. It took me about an hour or so to work out how to delete the outdated driver files that were left behind after uninstalling the old Logitech software I'd installed, before it would allow me to turn core isolation back on. Each to their own I suppose but I decided I'd rather have the security up against how often I'd likely use that wheel.

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